The Bespoke Process
Each piece of clothing we produce commences with a consultation during which we work with you to establish what you need your garment for, when and how often it will be worn, style ideas and a good look through our cloth bunches to find the perfect cloth. We carry cloth from some of Britain and Italy’s most respected mills and have close relationships with all of them. Whether it be a simple worsted or flannel, mohair or cashmere, or a linen, bamboo and silk blend for a summer jacket, our extensive library of cloths will guarantee we satisfy your sartorial palette
Your cutter will take a full set of measures and your configuration. We create every piece entirely from scratch, starting by drafting your pattern by pencil onto a giant piece of brown manila paper. Once this has been cut out and used to chalk your pattern onto your cloth, it will hang in our archive and serve as your unique blueprint and reference for any future orders.
Once cut, a bundle complete with your cloth, lining, canvas, pads, other trimmings and important notes pertaining to your order is passed on to your coatmaker. He will sew your clothing to a baste stage, ready for your first fitting. At this point, we gauge any alterations to the pattern and clothing itself that need to be made before advancing your jacket to a more progressed state for second and sometimes third fitting. At each fitting, a real sense of how your clothing is evolving comes through and provides the opportunity for feedback on comfort, fit and styling.
It takes us upwards of 65 hours to make each suit. We don’t believe in cutting corners and stipulate that the same team of professionals work on each of your orders so as to ensure consistency and grow the relationship between customer, cutter and coatmaking.
The final stages of the make process are finishing and pressing. Finishing includes minute edge stitching, felling of linings and the hand cutting and sewing of buttonholes. Our deft finishers carry out intricate work, giving your clothing its’ finished and polished look. Finally, the presser spends up to an hour masterfully pressing and steaming your clothing, respecting chest shape and sleeve pitch to perfectly capture the three dimensional embodiment of your initial, unique pattern.